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      <h1 class="post-title">2020年初伦敦行(4)：剑桥</h1>

      <div class="post-meta">
        <span class="post-time"> 2020-02-12 </span>
        <div class="post-category">
            <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E6%B8%B8/"> 旅游 </a>
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          <span class="more-meta"> 约 2714 字 </span>
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    <li><a href="#1-29-剑桥">1-29 剑桥</a>
      <ul>
        <li><a href="#剑桥大学">剑桥大学</a></li>
        <li><a href="#剑河">剑河</a></li>
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      <h2 id="1-29-剑桥">1-29 剑桥</h2>
<p>​又是个（难得的）晴天。按计划，到利物浦街（Liverpool Street）坐火车去剑桥。</p>
<p>利物浦街车站比​Paddington要新一点。站厅里有个矮墙围起来的区域，放满了自行车。英国人似乎很喜欢骑自行车到地铁/火车站，把车丢那儿，再坐轨交通勤。不过列车指示很不清晰，没有火车车次，只显示目标终点站和发车时间，得自己比照。差不多发车前20分钟，车次信息才上屏。打开提前下载好的Trainline应用，调出车票二维码，就可以扫码进站。和中国相比，最显著的不同是「不需要实名制」。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMROyOeqb6.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 伦敦·利物浦街车站</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>火车是Great Anglia公司运营的，开得不快，不过有免费wifi。一路都是英式村镇，草还是绿的，但乔木的叶子已经落光了，枝条萧索纠缠地聚成一堆。</p>
<h3 id="剑桥大学">剑桥大学</h3>
<p>到剑桥站后，在站内买当地的一日公交票，就可以坐巴士北驶进城了。途中路过居民区，是一些古旧的带院小宅，或联排双层砖屋。</p>
<p>晃荡晃荡停在Pembroke站，旁边就是Pembroke学院。从这里西北方向，就散布着剑桥各个学院。​剑桥大学虽名为大学，但其实是1个University（大学）和31个财务、治理机构都完全独立的College（学院）组成的。本科生在学院，研究生在大学。大学的财务和治理也是独立的。而剑桥大学本身呢，又是从牛津大学分离出来的。不断分离和自治，非常的英国。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRzcoKocc.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·Pembroke</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>并不多讲究，信手拍拍。国王学院旁是圣凯瑟琳学院，它因为扩建庭院，还把王后学院的大门挡住了。学校还是挺美貌的，但似乎没什么特别出名的校友，只认得演了甘道夫和万磁王的Ian McKellen，还是个中途辍学的。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRzmHZL81.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·St. Catherine College</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>再往前就是国王学院（King&rsquo;s College）了。这是1441年亨利六世创建的学院，起初只有它那座著名的礼拜堂，后来发展得比较上规模了。国王学院以古典学、艺术和生物等学科著称，知名校友包括凯恩斯、图灵，可能还可以加一个旁听生，「云中鹤」徐志摩。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRRYn4529.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王学院大门</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>在校门对面的纪念品店买了门票，进学院逛了一圈。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRSf2KMa4.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王学院</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>从外面看，国王礼拜堂的哥特范还是挺正的。当初引得蜘蛛人攀爬为荣，后来不得不加了防攀登装置。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRPp25309.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王学院</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRA00XT21.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王学院</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRSE3phab.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王学院大草坪（如无员工师生陪同禁止践踏）</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>难能刻骨的是国王礼拜堂内部允许拍摄（关闪光灯）。内部风格和西敏寺其实近似，只是西敏寺更恢弘。亨利六世是兰开斯特王朝的末代君王，所以礼拜堂内部雕满了家族印记——狮子、狗子和红玫瑰。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRPQcLi94.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王礼拜堂</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>花顶繁复精美。管风琴傲立中庭。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRThzff85.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王礼拜堂管风琴和花顶</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>带烛台式台灯的诵经房，很古典。温莎堡的嘉德骑士团荣誉厅就是这个样子，只是还挂满了族徽。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRQv5uC26.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王礼拜堂</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRB6S67d3.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王礼拜堂祭坛</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>国王礼拜堂不埋棺材，没西敏寺那么阴森。后堂专门做了个模型，告诉游客建筑顶部结构是怎么实现的。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRTJpuA34.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王礼拜堂结构模型</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRQVc1s62.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王学院</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRBzPRi4c.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王礼拜堂</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRUbVsl49.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王学院外</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRRmeZg0e.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王学院内部</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>走出国王学院，是条小河。志愿者驾着艇划过，水面静谧，小桥跨过水面，鸭群游过岸边。娃兴奋地用脚玩碎石路上的小石子，不料走来一个怪老头，硬要她把石子恢复回去。恢复完了他又不见了。专门从阴影中现身就为骂个小孩？角色成谜。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMRBVmfF0b.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王学院外</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSPZydd43.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·国王学院外</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<h3 id="剑河">剑河</h3>
<p>午饭时间，先循攻略去了一家「号称剑桥最早酒吧」的Eagle，广告说DNA结构发现者Watson和Crick常来。但菜单乏善可陈，就是些英式炸物，和各色啤酒。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSDLdx872.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥（自称）最古老的酒吧</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>放弃Eagles，跑到Bene&rsquo;t街找到一家西西里风格馆子<a href="http://www.aromi.co.uk/">Aromi</a>。头一次吃到西西里风味的focaccia，就是大馅饼，切成大方砖来卖。Capricciosa focaccia，加倍马苏里拉+火腿，奶酪味很浓重。Parmigiana，烤茄子，店里的特色，味道倒也不出奇，番茄酱比较酸。Spinach arancini呢，顾名思义就是菠菜饭团，外表像个撒了芥末的蛋。这个值得说道说道。一口咬下去，感人肺腑——里面的米饭是煮出来的、饱含东亚灵魂的米饭。在英国行走这几天，大米统统没法吃，硬邦邦的长粒印度米，口感灾难，还贵。Aromi的饭团宛如黑暗中的晨曦，沙漠中的绿洲，照亮了整个英国的天空。</p>
<p>Aromi有两家，转角一家还出售意大利冰淇淋（Gelato）。对面是University of Cambridge，​正好中午放学，大群的学生从里面或走、或骑单车鱼贯而出。在中世纪风格的石板街上呼啦啦地走散开。有一种真·象牙塔的氛围。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSlsJB25c.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·某教堂</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>下午三四点，太阳已经开始偏西。剑河里不时有游船划过。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSBamfo52.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑河</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSEhlAH6f.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑河</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>来到剑桥，总不能避开最大的学院三一学院（Trinity College）。这是剑桥大学内最大、最富也最有名的学院，知名校友包括牛顿、培根、罗素、麦克斯韦、维特根斯坦一大票人。三一学院的建筑分布在剑河两岸，也能买票进去看一部分。不过我们就只拍了个正门。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSBrPr412.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·三一学院大门</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSXKde41c.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·三一学院</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>三一学院大门旁还有个著名的打卡地：牛顿苹果树。我看到那棵矮矮的树后陷入了沉思。下面的话大家爱信不信：当年三一学院的看门大爷牛顿坐在这棵树下时，被一只苹果砸到头，出于好奇他打通了任督二脉，精心演算，发现了万有引力定律。由于万有引力定律是牛顿在1687年发表的，所以这棵苹果树已经有近400年历史了。</p>
<p>这是活生生的苹果树精啊！这种无厘头的树精我肯定是不会拍的。​</p>
<p>三一学院旁是St. John学院，是剑桥第二富的学院。建筑风格更华贵。金庸在剑桥就是读的圣约翰学院——他这么瞧不上自己的云中鹤表兄，自然不会选择国王学院。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSXVhG098.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·圣约翰学院</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>买了剑河游船票（15镑/人），坐人力船游河。船夫撑金属篙推船前行，每次下篙触到河床，都是“咣”的一声，显然河底很硬，没有淤泥。船夫是中年人，熟悉剑桥的掌故，每行经一座桥，或一个学院，便如数家珍地介绍沿革和轶事。剑桥口音熨帖，比伦敦音好听得多。游船雇了很多兼职的学生，这些年轻人撑船更有力，船速很快，不过对掌故的了解比不上年纪大的船夫。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSV7mQOba.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑河上的桥</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>坐在船上，能更近距离地看到陆路走不进的学院内景。圣约翰学院的大楼看起来相当气派。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSFL6bi2c.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·圣约翰学院</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSYy0xs0a.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·圣约翰学院</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSYGv0z4f.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·阿兰图灵住过的宿舍</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSVTG4Xf3.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·几何桥</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSGv2Vld3.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·剑河</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSWbJPCbc.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·剑河</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSZr9iWf2.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·圣约翰学院</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0212/001ZzLsRzy7AMSWCSUO4a.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 剑桥·某教堂</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>​船在游览段来回走了一圈，靠岸了。我们在广场旁的书店逛了逛（书贼贵），看了看礼品店。天气渐暮，就又坐公交原路返回火车站，再搭回程车回到了Liverpool Street。</p>
<p>[待续]</p>
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